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Choosing a polisher

Throw, machine type and the one specification that actually decides whether you will damage paint.

Most polisher advice starts with brand. Brand is the last thing that matters. Three specifications decide whether a machine is right for you, and once you have fixed those, the brand question is only about how much refinement you want to pay for.

1. Machine type — this is the safety decision

Dual-action (random orbital). The pad both spins and orbits, and crucially the spin is driven by friction rather than the motor. Press hard and the rotation stalls; the pad keeps orbiting but stops cutting. That stall is a safety feature — it is why a dual-action is very hard to burn paint with, and why it is the only sensible first machine.

Rotary. The pad is driven directly on a fixed axis. It does not stall, which means it cuts faster and it will go through a clear coat on an edge in about a second of inattention. Rotaries belong to people who have already spent a hundred hours on a dual-action and know what heat feels like through the handle.

Forced-rotation dual-action. A dual-action whose rotation is geared rather than friction-driven, so it cannot stall. Cuts nearly like a rotary, wanders less on curved panels, costs more, and removes the safety margin that made you buy a DA in the first place.

For almost everyone reading this: buy a dual-action.

2. Throw — how much ground you cover

Throw is the diameter of the orbit, and it is the difference between a full day and half a day on the same car.

ThrowWhat it is for
8–9 mmSmall panels, tight curves, spot repair. Safe, slow, precise.
12 mmA compromise nobody really needs now that 15 mm exists.
15 mmThe default. Covers a full-size vehicle in reasonable time, still sits flat on most curvature.
21 mmFaster on big flat panels — roofs, hoods, van sides. Fights you on a bumper.

A 15 mm machine plus a small 9 mm or cordless unit for pillars and jambs covers essentially every car. That two-machine set is a better purchase than one 21 mm machine.

3. Power, and why the wattage figure misleads

Wattage tells you what the motor draws, not what reaches the pad. The number that matters is whether the machine holds its throw under pad pressure, and no manufacturer publishes that.

The practical test: put moderate pressure on a 6-inch pad and watch the rotation. A good machine slows; a weak one stops entirely and you are now buffing with an expensive vibrator. Cheaper machines stall at lower pressure, which is not dangerous — it is just slow, and it teaches bad habits because you learn to press harder to compensate.

In price terms, roughly:

  • Under $150. Expect stalling under light pressure. Fine for applying sealant, frustrating for correction.
  • $180–260. ShineMate territory. Genuinely capable, noisier, bearings are the wear item. This is the value bracket.
  • $300–400. Griot’s G15 and equivalents. Holds throw properly, runs for hours, serviceable.
  • $600+. Rupes. Smoother, quieter, better balanced. On a full-day correction that is a physical difference, not a spec-sheet one.

4. What else you must buy

A polisher alone will not correct anything. Budget for:

  • A backing plate sized 20–25 mm smaller than your pads, with the correct thread for the machine.
  • Pads — at minimum a cutting and a polishing pad in your chosen size, and more of each than you expect. A saturated pad stops cutting.
  • An inspection light. Shop lighting hides the defects you are trying to remove and hides the haze you are leaving behind. This is not optional equipment; it is how you know whether the last hour worked.
  • A paint depth gauge, if you intend to correct anything you care about. Clear coat is typically 40–60 microns and you cannot put it back.

5. The short answer

If you want one line: buy a 15 mm long-throw dual action, a 5-inch backing plate, a cutting pad, a polishing pad, and a tunable inspection light. Spend what is left on compound rather than on machine. The machine is rarely the limiting factor — technique and lighting are.

Everything in Polishers lists throw and machine type on the product page, and Inspection Lighting lists colour temperature range and CRI where the manufacturer publishes it.